Fish and rice soup

Bring 1.5 litres of water to a gentle simmer with bay leaves, cumin, salt and one tablespoon of olive oil. Let infuse five minutes; aromatic water makes a richer broth than plain salted water.

Lower the fish into the simmering water (never boiling). Poach eight minutes until the flesh whitens through. Lift onto a plate, let cool a moment then flake into chunks, discarding bones.

Strain the broth through a fine sieve into a clean pot to remove any small bones or scales. Reserve the bay leaves; you will return them for the rice cooking.

Rinse the rice. Add to the simmering strained broth with the bay leaves, cover, low heat, eighteen minutes. Rest off heat four minutes; the rice should bloom and absorb the fish notes.

Return the flaked fish to the rice, stir gently to keep the chunks intact. Drizzle the remaining olive oil and add a thin slice of pickled lemon if desired for brightness.

Ladle into pre-warmed deep bowls so the rice spreads and the fish floats on top. Serve with toasted whole bread on the side. The dish should be neither thin like soup nor thick like risotto.