Grilled fish with mashed potatoes

Pick floury types like bintje or russet. Floury flesh breaks down in cooking and absorbs the butter, giving a velvet texture without the need for milk.

Boil potatoes whole and unpeeled in heavily salted water twenty-five minutes until a knife enters easily. Cooking with skin on prevents waterlogging and keeps the flavour concentrated.

Drain, peel while still hot using a fork to hold them. Press through a ricer or mash with a fork. Hot mashing prevents the starch from going gluey, the texture must stay airy.

Beat in cold butter cube by cube over very low heat. Each cube emulsifies, building gloss and richness. Season with the rest of salt and a turn of black pepper. Keep warm.

Brush fillets with two tablespoons of olive oil and a pinch of salt. Grill on a very hot pan or charcoal four minutes per side, turning once. The flesh should flake but remain moist.

Spoon a quenelle of mash on each warm plate, place the fillet alongside. Drizzle a thin thread of olive oil and add a small slice of pickled lemon for brightness.