Grilled fish on whole bread

Pick a wild Mediterranean fish such as sea bass or bream, eyes clear, gills bright red, flesh firm to the press. Avoid farmed varieties; texture and flavour differ profoundly.

Score the skin diagonally three times on each side. Rub with two tablespoons of olive oil, salt and black pepper. The score lines speed even cooking and let the seasoning reach the flesh.

Heat a heavy grill pan or charcoal grill on high five minutes. Brush the bars with the rest of olive oil to prevent the skin from sticking and tearing on contact.

Lay the fish at a forty-five-degree angle to the bars for the cross-hatch marks. Grill four minutes, rotate ninety degrees and grill one minute. Flip, repeat the pattern. Total ten minutes.

Place the whole bread slices directly on the same hot grill or pan in the last three minutes. Toast on both sides until lightly charred, taking on the smoke residue from the fish.

Slide the fish whole onto the toasted bread so the juices soak in. Scatter cured olives, place a wedge of pickled lemon on the side. Eat with fork and bread together.